Between Nikko’s storied temples and the feudal castle town of Aizu-Wakamatsu is the imperial hot spring resort of Nasu. Tucked into the cool mountain highlands and enclosed in the lush nature of a national park, Nasu has long been favored by Japan’s elites. Since the discovery of the area’s first hot spring about 1400 years ago, nobles, samurai, and other aristocrats have been coming to soak in Nasu’s healing waters. And since 1926, it has been the summer retreat of the imperial family.

Just a short distance from the imperial estate is the exclusive ryokan Nasu Bettei Kai, a locally owned and run establishment with artistic flair. A newly constructed dining room, tea lounge, and villa wrap around a terraced garden, full of old-growth trees and hassocks of moss. An additional nine rooms are housed in a lovingly renovated heritage building from 1972, which maintains its traditional character while offering the finest modern comforts.

Kai’s rooms are soothing retreats, each offering a private hot spring bath and cozy nooks that demand languid relaxation. Each is unique, offering lodgings tailored to your party’s needs, but more importantly, each is discrete, a secluded world unto itself, out of sight and mind of other guests and the world at large.

Owner Takao Kataoka conceived of Kai as a place to showcase the most beloved aspects of his home prefecture. The ryokan is defined by locality. It was built from Tochigi’s wealth of natural materials, even using traditional techniques revived specifically for the project. The cuisine is full of delicacies like Nasu wagyu and freshly caught sweetfish from the Naka River. And it is not only decorated throughout with pieces from Kataoka-san’s favorite artists but serves as a venue for periodic exhibitions introducing regional art and handicrafts to a wider audience.

Kai, meaning both an instance and a recurrence, invites you to return again and again to this sublime natural retreat.