The Ryokan Collection Welcomes a New Member - COVA KAKUDA The winding bays and inlets of Ago Bay, a unique marine ecosystem dotted with 60-some craggy ria islands, is the 19th-century birthplace of pearl cultivation. Its pearl farms, fisheries, and villages embody the idea of satoumi, coastal areas where biodiversity is increased through human contact. In the delicate balance of satoumi, humans do not just take from the rich bounty of the sea or land but are an integral part of a virtuous cycle, enriching their world even as it sustains them. In recent years, however, the traditional models of satoumi have broken down, facing pressure from water degradation, climate change, and urban flight. COVA KAKUDA, a new ultra-private retreat near the remote town of Shima, seeks to find a new model of satoumi to sustain the region into the future. To help preserve the natural environment, the resort centers sustainable operations, farming food on site, composting waste, renewably harvesting firewood from the surrounding forest, and recycling and upcycling ocean trash gleaned from the bay. They also support the establishment and training of new pearl farmers, providing jobs that keep local youth from moving to the city and sustaining a healthy population of Akoya oysters to clean the waters of Ago Bay. COVA KAKUDA is part of the venerable, family-owned Kakuda Pearl company and occupies the oceanfront site of a disused Akoya pearl farm and workshop from 1931. The existing buildings have been stylishly renovated and expanded to create 4 secluded villas, each with a distinct design inspired by its previous incarnation. The retreat offers an all-inclusive model that encompasses not just meals provided by a private chef but also a range of cultural and wellness activities. Chef Mamoru Matsumoto was born and raised in Ise-Shima, possessing an incredible depth of knowledge about local seafood and produce. In addition to the food grown on site, he acquires delicacies at their seasonal peak through his connections with the area’s fishers and farmers. With this bounty of land and sea, he crafts whimsical omakase meals unconstrained by genre. Traditionally Japanese preparations like shirako soup are given greater depth with the addition of European staples like grilled cauliflower, while Matsuzaka wagyu steak is paired with a classic chimichurri sauce from South America, for example. For Matsumoto, the important thing is to coax out the best possible flavors. Naturally, oysters make a frequent appearance. COVA KAKUDA has two custom-built communal saunas. One is a wood-stove sauna in the Finnish-style, with a picture window facing the bay. Guests can ladle water on the hot rocks surrounding the stove, adjusting the humidity to their preference. The other is modeled on a centuries-old Japanese bathing method called ishiburo, in which a stone chamber is heated by fire and then moistened mats were laid out to increase the humidity. In Ise-Shima, bathing in an ishiburo was the traditional way to purify oneself before visiting a shrine or temple. The temperature of the ishiburo is lower than a standard sauna and it is kept in low light, making it ideal for long, meditative soaks. Both saunas have freshwater plunge pools and direct access to a swimming pier for those who prefer to cool off with a brisk ocean swim. The makiburo is a traditional wood-fired bath. At COVA KAKUDA, they have installed one high on a hill overlooking the inlet, turning this off-grid tech into a luxurious hot tub. Soaking in the gently steaming water, guests are shaded by leafy ubame oaks and wild citrus trees, while birdsong provides the perfect accompaniment to the sunset view. As part of their mission to reinvigorate the traditional satoumi way of life, COVA KAKUDA is engaged in cyclical farming, growing as much food as possible in their on-site garden. By composting food scraps, pulverized oyster shells, and other waste, they enrich the soil to produce staple vegetables like carrots, cucumbers, daikon radishes, and Napa cabbage. Staff tend to several beehives, which pollinate the plants and provide honey. A grove of olive trees provides shade for farmers and bees alike. Meanwhile, free-range ukokkei chickens, a sought-after silkie breed, help with pest control while providing fresh eggs. In this lively garden environment, guests can understand how Ise-Shima’s isolated fishing communities thrived through efficient homesteading and reconnect with the generational wisdom that is often lost in our busy urban lives. COVA KAKUDA is proving that sustainability doesn’t have to come at the expense of luxury. On the contrary, it enables and preserves the secluded natural beauty and unique cultural immersion that defines the luxury ryokan experience. COVA KAKUDA Address: 1397-14 Katada, Shimacho, Shima-city, Mie Prefecture 517-0701 More For more information on The Ryokan Collection, click here Copyright © 2009 THE RYOKAN COLLECTION ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.