Bettei Otozure

Distance from nearest ryokan: 10 min on foot from Otozure/OTANISANSO

Nagato Yumoto Onsen (hot spring) is located in Nagato City, within about 10 minutes on foot from Otozure/OTANISANSO. Nagato Yumoto Onsen is the oldest hot spring in Yamaguchi with a history of 600 years and a well-known traditional hot spring nationwide.

Onto is a local symbol of a newly reopened day-use hot spring. This traditional hot spring facility was once closed in May 2017 due to building deterioration. After considering the local rebranding concept, Onto is newly redesigned by Mr. Kazuhiro Otani, the owner of Otozure/OTANISANSO, and reborn as a new local symbol of traditional hot spring in March 2020, to inherit the traditions for the future.

Japan is an archipelago located on a volcanic belt known as the “ring of fire.” Ever since the olden times, Japanese people have been enjoying bathing in hot springs. The practice of bathing in hot springs became popular for people in the Edo Period (1615-1867). The history of Onto is also profoundly linked to myths and legends, which initially began in 1426. There are roughly 20,000 hot spring facilities all over Japan. Believe it or not, there are usually legends and a deeper level of another story behind it associated with its origin. As a matter of fact, Onto has a fascinating inside story as well as others. You may probably feel different and find it more interesting if you acknowledge the story behind the legends of Onto experiencing the bath in the oldest hot spring of Yamaguchi.

Myths of Japanese Onsen (hot spring) are usually involved with gods or animals, such as Japanese white heron, white fox, etc. It probably sounds a bit fake to some people; surprisingly, however, most Japanese intend to believe the legends without any doubt. This is one of the uniquenesses of Japanese hot spring mythology.

Similarly, for Nagato Yumoto Onsen, there is a magnificent story about the origin of the onsen written in the Taineiji Temple history book. The story initially begins back in 1426, when Sumiyoshi Daimyojin (a god) has started visiting the abbot’s quarters at Taineiji Temple, which initially was built in 1410. Sometimes Sumiyoshi Daimyojin disguised himself as an old man or a lady and visited the temple to learn about the Buddhist dharma every day. One moonlit night, an old man was waiting for Joan Shuzen, the priest of Taineiji Temple at that time, meditating on the rocks on the west side of the main hall. When the temple priest asked for his name, he responded to him with a poem. “In the hideout of the voice of wind blowing through pine trees, there has always been the god of Sumiyoshi and still is.” – the old man was actually Sumiyoshi Daimyojin (a god). Right after that, the priest invited Sumiyoshi Daimyojin to the abbot’s quarters and handed him over a brocaded Kesa (a Buddhist stole that high-ranked monks are only allowed to wear) and Bodhisattva vow, which is a book that describes the core teachings of Buddhism. Then, Sumiyoshi Daimyojin said to the priest, “I have prepared a hot spring in the area of 8-Chome south at Taineiji Temple, so I would like you to use it for the monks to bathe”. As a return gift, Sumiyoshi Daimyojin discovered a hot spring flowing from the mountains. After he said that, thunder rang, and the old man (Sumiyoshi Daimyojin) disappeared above the clouds in the form of a giant dragon.

Onto was named after “Ho-on,” meaning gratitude of the old man (Sumiyoshi Daimyojin) for the priest, Joan Shuzen. Joan sincerely respected and gave him the brocaded Kesa and Bodhisattva vow. The place Sumiyoshi Daimyojin mentioned, “8-Chome south of Taineiji Temple,” is the current spot of Onto (Nagato Yumoto Onsen), and even after more than 600 years, the hot spring (Onto) is still springing from the bedrocks of the area.

This is the well-known story of the origin of Nagato Yumoto Onsen and Onto, known as the oldest hot spring in Yamaguchi with a history of 600 years. However, the background behind this story could be interpreted differently, according to the owner of Otozure/OTANISANSO, Mr. Kazuhiro Otani.

At that time, Zen Buddhism, such as the Soto-shu (one of the largest traditional sects of Zen in Japanese Buddhism), had strong ties with local daimyo (Japanese feudal lord). And hot springs were set up in various places for those monks who practiced at temples to cleanse themselves. The Ouchi Family (the clan) has earned enormous wealth through trade with China and Korea. Since the Sumiyoshi Daimyojin is a sea god who protects the sea and considering this background, the Ouchi Family, Taineiji Temple, and Sumiyoshi Shrine possibly collaborated to build the Onto story for political use. An inside story does not exist only for Onto, but for other hot springs all over Japan. They create legends using animals or gods based on a deeper level of another story associated with the political background behind it, like Onto. It is one of the uniquenesses about Japanese hot spring legend, and this is the historical legend of Onto, which has been passed down from generation to generation.

The reopened Onto is a one-story building that you can glimpse the beauty of Japanese traditions in the cozy wooden house. Its simple appearance is designed by Mr. Shohei Oka, who is known for the architecture of Busshozan Onsen in Kagawa Prefecture. In the public bath area, a stone statue of Sumiyoshi Daimyojin is enshrined, where it can be seen from both men’s and women’s sides. The average depth of the public hot spring baths in Japan is 50 to 60 centimeters (about 20 inches), but the depth of the Onto’s bath is 1 meter high (approx. 3.3 feet). Taking a bath in such a deep bath promotes blood circulation by applying water pressure to the whole body and reduces swelling and poor circulation. It’s actually better not to crouch down and just relax and enjoy the rich spring quality. The spring quality of Onto is a simple alkaline spring. The rich quality of the spring water is very soft and smooth, cleansing both your body and soul, as the ancient monks used to bathe 600 years ago. Onto, closely connected to Sumiyoshi Shrine and Otozure River, is a new symbolic scenery of Nagato Yumoto Onsen for both the neighbors and tourists. When surrounded by peaceful tranquility, it is easy to recall things in life that we may have overlooked. Come and experience Onto, the new symbol of Nagato Yumoto Onsen close to Otozure/OTANISANSO, and enjoy its sensational vibration.

Distance from nearest ryokan: 10 min on foot from Otozure/OTANISANSO

Restaurant Onto-shoku is located right next to Onto. After you relax at Onto, Restaurant Onto-shoku is an excellent spot for foodies or health-enthusiasts. At Restaurant Onto-shoku, you can enjoy health-conscious food using plenty of local ingredients, centered on Nagato Yumoto’s specialty chicken and tofu. Also, sweets are using Nagato chicken eggs, herbal tea from Yamaguchi, local sake, and organic wine. You can take it with you when you walk around Onto and Otozure River.

Distance from nearest ryokan: 5 min on foot from Otozure/OTANISANSO

The Otozure riverbeds have become available since spring 2020. The open space around the Otozure River is closely connected to Onto and Restaurant Onto-shoku. Since the restaurant is open, the lawn in the Otozure River background has become the right spot for everyone visiting Nagato Yumoto Onsen Town to hang around with a peaceful mind in nature. In this idyllic nature, romantic dinner parties, outdoor activities, morning bazaar, and weekend’s marché events and workshops are planned to be held. All these events and workshops are not only for visitors but also for the locals. From exploring the local items/food to having relaxing moments with your loved ones, the Otozure riverbeds have vast opportunities to range over the Nagato Yumoto Onsen even more.

Distance from nearest ryokan: 10 min on foot from Otozure/OTANISANSO

“cafe & pottery OTO” was reborn in 2017 from a 50-year-old vacant house to a stylish, cozy cafe and gallery, serving tasty Otozure/OTANISANSO blended coffee, tea, beer, local’s special fresh juice, light meal, and sweets. Out on the terrace, you will absolutely enjoy the peaceful moments listening to the babbling of a brook of the Otozure River right in front of you.

The cafe also exhibits the well-known Hagi pottery. The works of three young potters from Hagi-yaki Fukawa Klin, Mr. Masahiro Sakakura, Mr. Takao Tahara, and Mr. Zenemon Sakakura, are on display and for sale. Cafe’s drinks and homemade sweets are served on their pottery plate.

Hagi City is located on the coastal side of Yamaguchi. Hagi City is well-known for its ceramic industry and has produced many remarkable ceramic artists. The city prospered as a castle town in the olden days; place names related to samurai remain today. The samurai residences still exist in Hagi Castle Town – the lattice windows, white walls, and beautiful city space remain unchanged, blending in with the town and the people.

The history of Hagi-yaki originated when the ceramic potters, Lee Shakuko and Lee Kei brothers, who came from Korea during the Keicho era (1596 to 1615), opened a kiln for the feudal lord of Hagi Domain, Mouri Terumoto, and made korai style tea bowls. It was the beginning of Hagi-yaki pottery. Since ancient times, Hagi-yaki pottery has been awarded as one of Japan’s best pottery and has been loved among the tea masters. Since then, the tradition has been passed down from generation to generation for over 400 years to this day. In the best of the best, we introduce three awe-inspiring Hagi-yaki ceramic artists to you.

Distance from nearest ryokan: 5 min by car from Otozure/OTANISANSO

Mr. Masahiro Sakakura is a successor to the Sakakura Family, a sect of Hagi-yaki Ware Fukagawa Kiln, which has nurtured a history of 360 years in Fukagawa. After studying sculpture at an art university and graduate school, he studied pottery techniques for two years in the Kyoto City Traditional Industrial Engineer Training. In 2011, under his father, Mr. Shinbei Sakakura, the 15th generation, Mr. Masahiro Sakakura started making pottery and was eagerly working every day on his skills to cultivate the future of Hagi-yaki ware.

Mr. Masahiro Sakakura indicates the attraction of pottery. “It is interesting that what I did to the soil directly reflects the work. Depending on how you use it, it can give a soft impression or sometimes be a little rough. Each pottery ware is different in vibration and color. Therefore, we try to make it so it could have a strong texture. I’m also fascinated by the fact that you can create the presence of the soil of Hagi by making a relationship between the soil and myself.” says Mr. Masahiro Sakakura. Hagi-yaki ware is originally pottery for tea ceremony bowls. The feature of Hagi-yaki ware soil is suitable for tea, and it has been by many tea masters for a long time. It may not be a flashy tool to fascinate everyone for no reason, but Hagi-yaki ware is pottery that can use matcha tea and flowers to the extent. “I find it very fulfilling to make something historic. I feel responsible when I think that I am standing during history, techniques, and materials that had been passed down from generation to generation,” says Mr. Masahiro Sakakura.

Distance from Otozure/OTANISANSO: 40 min by car

In 1663, the first Kyusetsu of Miwa Kiln became the kiln of the Mori clan in Hagi. After he moved the kiln to the present location in 1682, Miwa Kiln has been played that role for generations, demonstrating his uniqueness in his work. Even after he lost the backing of the Mori clan in the Meiji Restoration, Miwa Kiln continued to develop the Hagi ware’s technique without extinguishing the flame of the kiln. Miwa Kiln’s philosophy is to continue the own progress, having respect for their family motto, “Fuso-Jiryu.” “Fuso-Jiryu” means, “Do not be influenced by the temporal style but always think essentially about what your job is.” It was given by Sanjo Sanetomi, a Japanese Imperial court noble, statesman, and later became the Daijo-daijin (regent and grand minister of state) during the Meiji Restoration. Later, the 10th Kyusetsu (Kyuwa) renamed the Miwa Kiln as “Fusoan” from that family’s motto, “Fuso-Jiryu.”

“My grandfather, the 11th Kyusetsu was surprisingly flexible,” Mr. Taro Miwa, the first son of the 13th Kyusetsu, recalls. His grandfather believed not all brand-new trends are necessarily alarming. Moreover, he thought that a new approach should be absorbed into pottery occasionally – “The important thing is to face it and be creative, to pass down the new traditions to the next generation,” the 11th Kyusetsu said.

Miwa Kiln had been challenged to be creative enough to make unique potteries for generations. You may be able to glimpse a soul in every single pottery ware they create. Typically, the two or three soils found near Hagi are used for Hagi-yaki pottery, whose texture is generally soft and plump. However, the 13th Kyusetsu encountered the soil used for building the pagoda of Yakushiji Temple, one of Japan’s national treasures standing in Nara. Using those soils, he created the most extraordinary taste of the Hagi-yaki ware ever.

The El Capitan tea bowl shown in the photo above, is the original representative work by the 13th Kyusetsu created with the rusty Japanese sword in recent years. The one issue with using the Japanese sword is the influence of his father, the 11th Kyusetsu. It was made in a unique making method: he pounds 4 kg (approx. 9 pounds) of Hagi-yaki soil with firewood, then cut it with the sword to form and hollow the inside. After drying to get it unglazed, he burns it and applies the glaze on. This special glaze of Miwa Kiln called “Kyusetsu white glaze,” developed by the 10th Kyusetsu. It is made by dissolved rice straw ashes, ashes burnt from trees, and powder of the mineral called feldspar. The most important material is the rice straw ashes, the pesticide-free growing rice straws burned by him and his family’s hands. This glaze’s initial color is black, but it will mysteriously turn into pure white after burning it at 1,220 degrees. The 13th Kyusetsu has continuously written the new history using the traditional kinds of soil and the glaze originally made by the 10th Kyusetsu.

“The core belief of our work is to feel the life of earth,” Mr. Taro Miwa says. Miwa Kiln believes that each soil has a personality, originality, and a soul; therefore, acknowledging each soil as one life, not just material or tool, is essential for creating pottery wares. Generally, people recognize that pottery wares shouldn’t be cracked or broken, but soils are supposed to be cut and broken by nature. “We are exploring each other’s limits and vice versa, letting the soil pull out our limits. We are establishing an equal relationship with each other,” Mr. Taro Miwa stresses. As their family’s motto is hung up on their drawing-room wall, Fusoan Miwa Kiln is still innovating while preserving their tradition for many generations.

(Advance reservation is required if you wish to visit the gallery or purchase the items.)

Distance from nearest ryokan: 35 min by car from Otozure/OTANISANSO

Another unique Hagi-yaki pottery artist is Mr. Tsukasa Kaneko, who invented a uniquely original way of painting art for Hagi-yaki pottery, which is “sumi-nagashi.” “Sumi-nagashi” is a technique in which a liquid of full color is placed with a dropper and painted with a natural flow and exquisite vibration. His major ware work is a stripped pottery ware. Another feature is that it looks like pottery because there is no “penetration” in the crack pattern that enters the glaze layer due to the difference between the main body and the glaze, which have different degrees of contraction. Mr. Kaneko’s “Mushrooms” is also a Hagi ware art created by the technique of “sumi-nagashi.” He studies mushrooms and is intensely inspired by them. You may feel uplifted by the real and captivating beauty of his Hagi-yaki art.

Hagi-yaki ceramic artists had created new works and built a tradition in the history of Hagi-yaki for over 400 years. Remarkably, Mr. Tsukasa Kaneko challenges the unique ceramics that can be enjoyed with the current feeling, such as patterns and colors. His works are displayed and for sale in his gallery and the gift shop at Otozure/OTANISANSO. Find a container that fits comfortably in your hand while checking the weight, size, and feel of the product when you hold it.

Yamaguchi is located on the westernmost of Japan’s main island, bordering Hiroshima and Shimane on the east and Fukuoka in Kyushu Island on the west. Yamaguchi is quiet and rural. Its pace is comfortably laid-back, yet easily reached by Shinkansen (bullet train) from major cities such as Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Fukuoka, and Hiroshima.

Yamaguchi offers magnificent historical significance. Hagi is a city that used to be the capital of a significant samurai domain and is one of the most beautifully preserved castle towns and a unique local style of pottery. Yamaguchi is also renowned for stunning natural landscapes, including beautiful beaches, a crystal clear hidden pond, and the largest mystic limestone cave in Japan.

Distance from nearest ryokan: 30 min by car from Otozure/OTANISANSO

Akiyoshi-do is one of Japan’s largest limestone caves, which opens 100 meters underground in Akiyoshidai National Park at the park’s southern foot. After passing through the chilly cedar grove that touches your skin, you will reach the entrance to Akiyoshi-do. The cave course is about 1 kilometer (approx. 3,281 feet), which makes the total length exceed 10.7 kilometers (approx. 35,105 feet) and is the second-largest in Japan. The cave’s temperature is constant at 17 degrees Celsius (approx. 63 degrees Fahrenheit) throughout the year, which is cool in summer and warm in winter. The mysterious natural sculptures in the cave that seem to freeze time are rich in variety and will evoke a great impression in your heart.

Distance from nearest ryokan: 20 min by car from Otozure/OTANISANSO

Beppu Benten Pond is spring water that stands quietly in the precincts of Beppu Itsukushima Shrine at the foot of Akiyoshidai and Akiyoshi-do, which are famous scenic spots nationwide. Beppu Benten Pond has also been selected as one of the “Best 100 Water in Japan” designated by Japan’s Ministry of the Environment. Beppu Benten Pond boasts an abundant amount of spring water of 11 tons per minute. The water temperature is constant at 14 to 15 degrees Celsius (approx. 57 to 59 degrees Fahrenheit) throughout the year. You may also drink the spring water and bring it back home from the dedicated water supply station. The place is also believed to be a spiritual site, which people call it because if you drink one cup of water, you will live one year longer, and if you drink two cups, you will live two years longer.

The secret of this blueness lies in this region’s unique karst terrain, which is composed of limestone. At Beppu Benten Pond, highly transparent water containing calcium is gushing. The spring water is illuminated by sunlight, and only blue light is reflected, making it look like this mysterious blue. The weather that makes the pond look most beautiful is sunny when light is efficiently reflected. The pond is the beauty of cobalt blue like the emerald green of jewels, and visitors just cannot take their eyes off of the mysterious color.

Distance from nearest ryokan: 10 min by car from Otozure/OTANISANSO

There are about 30 yakitori restaurants in Nagato City, a port town facing the Sea of Japan in the northern Yamaguchi with about 34,000 people. This is making the largest number of yakitori restaurants in Japan per 10,000 people. There is a little cozy local’s favorite yakitori izakaya, Komori, which is the oldest restaurant in Nagato City in this town. It has been more than 70 years since the restaurant was founded.

The restaurant’s inside with a small counter is always crowded with local regulars and tourists, looking to have the taste of mother’s home cooking and her professional skill of yakitori that has been inherited for many decades. Their yakitori made from Choshu chicken tastes like heaven, and it is also excellent with drinks. Enjoy their deliciousness of the fresh chicken from the market every morning and locals’ favorite Nagato’s inherited traditional taste.

Arrive at Ube Airport after a 1 hour and 45 minute flight from Haneda Airport in Tokyo. You will be welcomed by a driver and transfer to Otozure/OTANISANSO by private car, a trip that takes 1 hour and 10 minutes.

*From Fukuoka Airport: 2 hours and 15 minutes by car.
*From Hakata: about 30 minutes by shinkansen bullet train plus 50 minutes by car. Hakata station is about 15 minutes from Fukuoka Airport by car.
*From Osaka: about 2 hours and 20 minutes by shinkansen, plus 50 minutes by car.

Yamaguchi Prefecture, located at the westernmost end of the main island of Honshu, is known for its beautiful scenery and as the birthplace of the world-famous premium Dassai sake. The region’s Hagi-yaki pottery is among Japan’s most famous. Historically, Yamaguchi had an important role in the Edo era and in bringing Japan’s feudal era to an end with the 19th century Meiji Restoration. The region’s long coastline and location on the Sea of Japan have resulted in centuries of influence from the Korean Peninsula, and it has been mostly spared from damage from the typhoons, flooding and earthquakes that afflict other parts of Japan. Its other coast, on the Seto Inland Sea, is dotted with pretty islands, and its rugged interior is full of beautiful mountains and picturesque gorges.

Venerable brewer Dassai makes some of the finest sake in Japan, using time-tested, centuries-old brewing techniques to ensure the highest quality and its sake’s distinctive flavor.

Hagi-yaki pottery is justly renowned for its beauty and quiet simplicity. The simple, rustic shapes and delicate, translucent colors are prized by tea ceremony masters, as are the changes in the glaze as the cups and bowls are used over many years.

On the way to Otozure/OTANISANSO ryokan, take the opportunity to sample the local cuisine for lunch. Kawarasoba, literally “roof-tile noodles,” is one of the delicious specialties of Yamaguchi. It is believed to have originated in the Edo period, when soldiers used roof tiles to grill meat. Nowadays, cha-soba (tea-flavored buckwheat noodles), egg, beef and nori seaweed are placed on a heated roof tile and served with a special broth. This dish is famous all over Japan.

Take a scenic drive to enjoy the beautiful scenery of Yamaguchi. Your next stop is the island of Tsunoshima, sitting prettily in the Sea of Japan. As you cross the elegant Tsunoshima Bridge from the main island, drinking in its stunning views of the clear blue ocean and white sand beaches, you will feel like you are on a tropical island. Amagase Park on the Tsunoshima end of the bridge is a fine place for photos.

Continue on to Higashi-Ushirobata Tanada, an area of terraced rice paddies overlooking the Japan Sea. In the evening, the sight of fishing boats dotting the ocean far below, with their lights shining to lure fish, is unforgettable.

Also nearby is Motonosumi Inari Shrine, famous for its tunnel of 123 red torii gates stretching up a hill from the ocean. It is said that walking through the tunnel of torii brings luck, especially to fishermen, businesspeople and travelers. The shrine is also popular among sightseers, attracted by the spectacular views and striking beauty of the red torii against the lush green and blue of the seaside.

Check in at Otozure/OTANISANSO.

Nagato Yumoto Onsen, the home of the beautiful Otozure/OTANISANSO ryokan, has been welcoming guests for 600 years, making it the oldest onsen town in Yamaguchi. The Otozure River flowing through the area is the setting for a famous love story – a yuna, or woman working at a tea house, fell in love, but it was in vain; she wrote of her unvoiced love on a tiny strip of paper, and the river carried it away. The spot is now known as a “sacred place for lovers.”

The concept of Otozure/OTANISANSO is toji – hot spring recuperation – something the town of Nagato Yumoto Onsen has specialized in for centuries. This contemporary ryokan, with only 18 rooms in a huge building, combines the culture of traditional ryokan with the convenience and modern facilities of a Western hotel.

Enjoy Otozure/OTANISANSO’s outstanding dining – Japanese kaiseki ryori, French cuisine or teppanyaki – and the impressive selection of sake, shochu and wines from around the world. Meals are served on elegant Hagi-yaki pottery.

After dinner, you may wish to stroll outside the ryokan dressed in a yukata (casual summer kimono) to enjoy the fabulous display of stars. Nothing will interrupt your view as you enjoy the panorama of sky ablaze with shining stars. You might also like to check out the domed astronomical observatory at Otani Sanso next door.

After breakfast, you can savor a peaceful moment on a sofa in the ryokan’s entrance hall. Its low ceiling and Japanese garden bring a unique and elegant atmosphere to Otozure/OTANISANSO.

In the afternoon, you could go on a VIP visit to Hagi Pottery Artisan Studio. The renowned Hagi-yaki is the local style of Japanese pottery and makes an excellent souvenir of a trip to Hagi.

We’ll visit the studio of a renowned Hagi-yaki artist, a 12th-generation master with whom the proprietor of Otozure/OTANISANSO has a special relationship. You might try making your own Hagi-yaki after strolling around the beautiful city of Hagi.
*Please book in advance for this special tour.

Hagi is a lovely place, with a pretty old town that has some fine old samurai and merchant residences, some of which are open to the public. The city also boasts exceptional museums and art galleries, as well as the ruins of the old castle.

With its many old streets and residences that have survived in their original form to the present day, Hagi is one of Japan’s most beautiful castle towns.

Return to Otozure/OTANISANSO.

*Activities such as barbecuing on the grassy plain at Senjojiki, scuba diving at Aomi Island and sea kayaking at Yuya can be arranged on request. Availability depends on the season.

Check out from Otozure/OTANISANSO.

On the way to Ube Airport or Shin-Yamaguchi station, you may drop by the Akiyoshidai Plateau, a spectacular place with strange karst topography dotted with limestone pinnacles, and a great place to hike on the numerous trails. The massive Akiyoshido cave, the largest and longest limestone cave in Japan, is also worth a visit – you can hike through it to see the beautiful limestone formations and underground terraces.

Akiyoshidai International Art Village is another interesting stop on this route. The village’s beautiful buildings, facilities and striking works of art provide a base for artistic activities, including visual art, music, dance and theater.

Continue on to Ube Airport by car and fly to Haneda Airport in Tokyo or transfer to Fukuoka Airport by private car. Otherwise, you may take a shinkansen bullet train to Osaka or Hakata.