THE RYOKAN COLLECTION

In a country where quality seafood reigns supreme, the Seto Inland Sea—Setouchi for short—is revered for the sheer variety and taste of its fish. Thanks to the mild climate and plentiful nutrients and minerals that flow into these waters from the many tree-covered small islands, marine life flourishes in Setouchi, and its seafood is sought after by chefs across Japan for its springy texture and depth of flavor. At Roka, Kyoto-trained executive chef Yuji Makishima presides over a five-person team who prepare modern kaiseki and sushi multi-course feasts, each with a vegan option, for lunch and dinner. Staying guests enjoy sumptuous Japanese-style breakfasts as well.

Ninety percent of the ingredients are sourced locally, right down to the miso, salt, and soy sauce, all from Kagawa Prefecture. The delicately flavored salt is Sanuki Moshio, derived in the same way as ancient times by boiling down mineral-rich seaweeds like sargassum. The soy sauce is brewed on nearby Shodoshima Island and infused in-house with Roka’s own blend of umami-rich bonito shavings and kombu. While emphasis is placed on seafood, other regional specialties include premium Nagi Wagyu beef from northern Okayama and olive-fed Wagyu from Shodoshima, the birthplace of olive cultivation in Japan. Wagyu cattle on the island are grown on feed blended with the leftover pressings for a lusciously rich and clean flavor packed with high levels of oleic acid.

True to form, all meals at Roka are presented with the characteristic warmth of ryokan-style hospitality.