Shinsen

Step into Ryokan Shinsen, a sanctuary nestled in Takachiho said to be touched by the gods, where Okami Kumi Satō welcomes guests with unmatched culinary delights and hospitality honed to perfection—an experience found nowhere else.
Takachiho is a town steeped in myth. It is home to Amano Iwato, the cave where the sun goddess Amaterasu once hid, and the vast Amano Yasugawara cave, where countless gods gathered to resolve the crisis. It is also the site of Tenson Kōrin, where Ninigi-no-Mikoto (Ameterasu’s grandson) descended from the heavens. Even those without a spiritual bent can’t help but feel a certain sacred aura in the air.
At Ryokan Shinsen, this divine atmosphere is palpable. Influencers posting on Instagram often use hashtags like #RyokanWithGods, capturing the ryokan’s ethereal charm.

Ms. Satō is the face of Takachiho’s finest ryokan. Bright and cheerful, she instantly puts guests at ease. It’s about an hour and twenty minutes by car from Aso Kumamoto Airport, and her warmth melts away the fatigue of travel the moment you meet her.

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From young Okami to Okami

As the direct second-generation heir, Kumi naturally stepped into the role of Okami.
“My mother was the first-generation Okami, and I served as the young Okami for many years. Seventeen years ago, Rakuten Travel invited me to enter their ‘Omotenashi Spirit Contest for Okami.’ My father said, ‘You should do it, not your mother.’ So I applied. More than 30 Okami from across Japan—from Hokkaido to Okinawa—competed, and even though it was an online vote, I won. From that moment, I dropped the ‘young’ from my title, became the Okami, and my mother moved to a behind-the-scenes role.”

Thus, a thirty-something Okami came into her own.
“It’s rare to find an Okami in their early 30s. Even someone in your 50s is considered young in this role. The expectations were incredibly high, and those first five or six years were very challenging. Even now, I still feel nervous when I appear before guests.”

Why ‘#RyokanWithGods’?

“Many guests say that just stepping onto the property feels like entering a sacred space, as if a protective barrier surrounds it. Some even claim they’ve glimpsed a zashiki-warashi—a mischievous house spirit—in their rooms. They’re never frightening; the stories are always shared with delight.”

A ten-room ryokan founded by her grandmother

Ryokan Shinsen is now recognized as one of Takachiho’s premier ryokan, but the road to that status was far from smooth. Let’s hear Okami Satō recount its history.

“My grandmother founded this ryokan back in August 1973. At the time, Japan National Railways had launched the ‘Discover Japan’ campaign in 1970 to promote individual travel. Miyazaki Prefecture became popular with honeymooners. Takachiho wasn’t widely known then, but suddenly crowds began to flock here, and there simply weren’t enough rooms in town to accommodate them.”

Her grandmother seized the opportunity.
“We started with just ten rooms. Each was a six-tatami-mat space. There was a single public bath, and the toilets were shared. It was somewhere between a guesthouse and a proper ryokan, really. Considering how we began, it’s an immense honor just to be included in The Ryokan Collection.”

The CEO’s bold decision

Let’s rewind the clock back about fifty years. A key figure in the history of Ryokan Shinsen was the Okami’s father, Mr. Katsuhiro Satō.

“At my grandmother’s request, my father dropped out of university and returned to his hometown at around age 20. He brought along my mother, who was 19-year-old, and this young couple, knowing nothing about innkeeping, began their journey in the ryokan business.”

By age of 21, her father became the first-generation president and named the ryokan Shinsen. Yet the beginning was far from smooth.

“When my sister and I were born, there were almost no guests at all. The ryokan was basically our playground. Even when playing hide-and-seek, it was impossible to get caught—it was so spacious.”

A decade later, at age of 30, her father made a decisive move.

“Running the ryokan the way we had been meant competing with every similar local ryokan. We decided we needed to break free and aim higher. We shifted fully toward a traditional Japanese style, converting warehouses into three rooms with sunken hearths, revamped the cuisine into a Kyoto-style kaiseki traditional haute cuisine, and gradually renovated the property. By 1985-86, the ryokan had taken shape.”

Refining hospitality

Ms. Satō began helping at the ryokan while in middle school. After a brief period away following her marriage, she returned to the family business, eventually stepping into her role as Okami.

“When I started helping at the ryokan, I realized it was quicker to learn directly from our guests than anyone else, so we began leaving feedback forms in the guest rooms. The feedback was often harsh, but I learned a lot from it. While you can’t change the physical aspects overnight, we focused on improving everything we could on the service side.”

Her dedication had a clear purpose.
“For many years, the road leading to the ryokan was narrow, and guests would arrive in a bad mood, grumbling, ‘Why make us go down that road?’ so that’s where the real challenge begins. Starting with a negative, the whole staff would go all out to lift their spirits, aiming for them to leave laughing. That became our goal—ensuring every guest leaves happy. That’s how our hospitality was honed.”

Today, the ryokan is accessible via a wider road, though GPS navigation sometimes still leads you along the “old narrow road that would annoy guests,” creating a downward route from the top of the hill. Ms. Satō notes that staff members, anticipating guests’ arrival, sprint up the hill even in sweltering heat to provide a warm welcome—a level of care that leaves a lasting impression.

The hands-on CEO

The transformative vision of the ryokan continued under Ms. Satō’s father.

“Today, we have 15 guest rooms, and not a single one is alike. Even the ceilings are all different. The architect was from Saitama, but my father specified every detail himself. He dislikes leaving things entirely to professionals, saying it risks making the ryokan look the same as any other. He even studied Kyoto temple gardens on his own, then guided local gardeners to realize his vision for the landscaping.”

Expanding the property was also his initiative.
“When I returned, the ryokan was surrounded by rice fields and farms, with the chorus of frogs as our natural soundtrack. Today, that area houses our ‘Hanare’ suites and the separate ‘Villa Koniwa’. Takachiho also has the legend of the rogue demon Kihachi, who was defeated and buried in three parts: head, torso, and limbs. Coincidentally, the torso mound was on the neighboring plot. Misfortune plagued the owner, who wanted to sell, and my father purchased it.”

This small forest and garden, including the Kihachi mound, was named Senjō-en.
“Since acquiring the Kihachi mound, everything has gone smoothly for us. It feels as though something invisible is watching over the ryokan,” she notes.

Her father is not only fortunate but remarkably versatile.
“He even taught staff how to build bamboo fences and insisted on doing as much by hand as possible, from pruning trees to maintaining the gardens. He used to personally prepare the carp served to guests and even crafted intricate mountain trout sashimi.”

Now 73 years old, he continues to embrace his hands-on approach.
“Even today, he goes fishing for fresh ayu to serve guests, wading waist-deep into the river—it’s life-risking work. There are three rivers nearby that yield ayu, and today he’s at the Mitate River,” she says.

The president’s deep love for Takachiho

The way the president interacts with Takachiho is truly unique, Okami Satō says.

“My father quit smoking at 30 and naturally gained weight because the food tasted so good. To slim down, he began running at the local sports park and became friends with high school track team students. This led him to coach the Takachiho High School ekiden (long-distance relay) team. Over a three-year plan, he trained the students rigorously. In Miyazaki, Kobayashi High is the powerhouse, but under his guidance, Takachiho High defeated them and qualified for the national high school ekiden. Some said it was luck, so he pushed the team to win again. He later said the experience of planning and strategizing over those three years helped him in managing the ryokan.”

He is also an avid walker.
“He started the ‘Takachiho Walking Club,’ leading guests from the ryokan to Amano Iwato Shrine. It eventually grew into a full marathon and later evolved into the town-wide ‘Mythical Takachiho Marathon,’ complete with a pre-event festival to boost overnight stays. Once the event gained traction, the town took over as organizer. That festival inspired the ongoing ‘Takachiho Together Walk,’ which continues to this day.”

“My father was born and raised in Takachiho, so he loves the town and wants to see it thrive. That’s why he often takes the initiative to start new projects—he simply cannot resist getting involved.”

A ryokan focused on creating a healing space

Today, the life of Ryokan Shinsen revolves around its Okami.

“Since joining The Ryokan Collection, I’ve observed how other ryokan offer diverse experiences to their guests and wondered what we could do differently. But Takachiho itself is rich in attractions—Takachiho Gorge, mythological sites, the Amaterasu Railway, and activities around Mount Aso. I realized that our ryokan doesn’t need to create experiences from scratch. Instead, we support local DMCs—destination management companies—helping them craft unique plans, which we then introduce to our guests and let them enjoy fully.”

So where does Ryokan Shinsen position itself?

“I believe our role is to focus on providing true healing and relaxation. For instance, every room has its own open-air bath, so guests can soak as much as they like, with or without tattoos, in complete privacy. All meals are served in private dining rooms, so families with small children can relax without worrying if the little ones cry or fuss. Of course, if guests seek local information, we’ll gladly help them discover what they’re looking for. In the end, what makes us unique is specializing in creating a restorative space where we stand closely by our guests’ side.”

Cuisine found nowhere else

Ryokan Shinsen offers an impressive 14 private dining rooms, and guests are treated to a change of setting between dinner and breakfast, making every meal feel fresh and unique. Dinner begins in style, with steaming hot sake poured from a hollowed bamboo flask—kappo-zake—paired with a taste of caviar.

“Kyushu is known for its delicious rice. In Miyazaki’s Shiiba Village—considered one of Japan’s three great unexplored regions—sturgeon are raised in the pristine spring waters that feed the Mimi River. Because the water is so cold, the fish grow slowly. Normally, caviar is harvested after six years, but here we wait until eight. The eggs become larger, and the very finest are served as our signature Shinsen Caviar.”

Indeed, the grains are astonishingly large, with far less salt than usual and a rich creaminess reminiscent of egg yolk. At Shinsen’s annual wine event, guests can witness the dramatic spectacle of a sturgeon butchering, followed by caviar served freshly rinsed in sake—a delicacy normally reserved only for producers.

“Guests may even enjoy it in a luxurious caviar rice bowl.”

Alas, March 2026 is expected to be the final year of this extraordinary event.

And then, there is the legendary Ozaki beef.
“Ozaki beef is available year-round. Its fat melts at just 28°C, so it dissolves instantly on the tongue without heaviness. Guests can enjoy it both as shabu-shabu and as a perfectly seared steak.”

As one discreet staff member whispered, it is only through the Okami’s special connections that such a rare delicacy finds its way to Ryokan Shinsen’s tables.

Close ties with local farmers

The ryokan also maintains strong relationships with farmers in the region.

“We help with the harvest of mangoes from growers in Miyazaki, as well as watermelons, melons, and pears from farmers in Kumamoto. By purchasing directly, even produce with small blemishes—perfectly delicious but unsellable in the market—finds a home in our kitchen. It’s one way we try to support the farmers who sustain us.”

A major new project underway

Looking ahead, a bold new venture is in motion with an opening scheduled for July next year.

“We’re preparing to launch ‘Beppu Shinsen’ in Beppu, Ōita Prefecture. It won’t be in Kannawa but in Minamitateishi. The property will feature six villas, all newly built from the ground up, and will aim for an even higher level than Takachiho. Guestrooms will range from 120 to 200 square meters, and the concept is an ‘adults only retreat’—children will not be accommodated. This will be the culmination of over fifty years in hospitality, truly my father’s life’s work brought to completion.”

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