Kotohira Kadan

The town of Kotohira in Kagawa Prefecture is home to Kotohira-gu Shrine, affectionately known as "Konpira-san." The main deities enshrined there are Omononushi-no-kami and Emperor Sutoku. The town has a long history intertwined with the Konpira pilgrimage, which has continued uninterrupted since the Edo period. Nestled at the foot of Mt. Zozu, home to the revered Kotohira-gu Shrine, Kotohira Kadan enjoys a setting rich in history and natural beauty. From the Garden Lounge on the third floor, sweeping views extend across the town of Kotohira to the majestic Mt. Iino, known locally as Sanuki Fuji.

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A Ryokan with a 400-Year History

“Our history dates back to 1627, when we began as a traditional inn called Bizenya along the main approach to Kotohira-gu Shrine. Next year, we will celebrate our 400th anniversary. Nearly 280 years later, in 1905, the 16th-generation owner, Genjiro Miyoshi, established Kotohira Kadan on a hilltop as a detached retreat and culinary ryokan for Bizenya, commemorating Japan’s victory in the Russo-Japanese War.”

Today, the property comprises six buildings: three guest room wings and the ryokan’s three iconic detached villas—Choseiden, Izumitei, and Enjukaku. The villas, in particular, are known for having welcomed many distinguished writers and artists over the years.

“Enjukaku welcomed the celebrated writer Mori Ogai, Izumitei hosted the poet Kitahara Hakushu, and Choseiden received His Imperial Highness Prince Takamatsu. Other distinguished guests included the poet couple Yosano Akiko and Yosano Tekkan, as well as Yoshii Isamu and Ibuse Masuji. Ogai stayed here for three days while serving as Surgeon General of the Imperial Japanese Army. During his stay, he composed the following waka: Green stand the pines, crimson glow the maples; Never shall I forget those I met at Kotohira Kadan.”

Ogai’s novel Konpira opens with a scene set at Kotohira Kadan: “Dr. Ono Tsubasa, a scholar of literature, had finished delivering a lecture in Takamatsu and arrived in Kotohira on January 10. There, he checked in to Kotohira Kadan, located at the foot of Mt. Zozu.” The ryokan appears from the very opening of the novel, underscoring its long-standing place in Japan’s literary history.

Three Detached Cottages of Cultural Importance

The three detached villas, each built more than a century ago, are remarkable examples of traditional Japanese architecture. Their timeless beauty is further enriched by the extensive collection of artworks assembled by Genjiro Miyoshi, lending each residence an unmistakable sense of refinement.

Choseiden, for example, is home to an exceptional collection.

“Choseiden, the largest of the three detached villas, is built in the sukiya style, incorporating elements of traditional tea-house architecture. Of the three villas, it alone was relocated here by Genjiro from his hometown of Tadotsu. Visitors entering through its irimoya (hip-and-gable) entrance are greeted by a hanging scroll by Eiichi Kotozuka. In the tokonoma alcove of the shoin-style reception room hangs a triptych depicting Kanzan Jittoku by Yorinao Horie, alongside many other notable works of art.”

Every architectural detail reflects exceptional craftsmanship

“The bathroom features an umbrella-shaped ceiling with a radial design that promotes natural ventilation. The floors are finished in lacquer, while the restroom features a beautifully crafted raised coffered ceiling. Even the original Japanese-style toilet has been deliberately preserved, with a modern washlet provided in a separate room for everyday use. The wavy glass windows and lighting fixtures also date from the Meiji and Taisho periods and have become increasingly rare today. These original architectural features lend the villa a distinctive sense of atmosphere and authenticity. At the same time, they present an ongoing challenge, as many can no longer be easily repaired or faithfully restored if they are damaged.”

Such architectural craftsmanship is rarely encountered today. It is evident that great care has been taken to strike a balance between preserving original materials and selectively updating facilities to meet modern needs.

“Over the years, the structure has gradually shifted, and we have even had to jack up parts of the building to correct the distortion. In many ways, it is a constant balancing act between preservation and restoration,” she says with a smile. “That said, buildings like these are an important part of Japan’s cultural heritage, and they lie at the very heart of Kotohira Kadan. We see it as our mission to preserve them for future generations.”

It would be easy to assume that only Japanese visitors appreciate the beauty of traditional architecture like this. In reality, however, that is far from the case.

“While we welcome guests from Europe and North America, our strongest demand comes from across Asia, particularly Taiwan, Hong Kong, and South Korea. The growth of inbound tourism has undoubtedly been the most significant change for us. Even February, once considered the low season, now enjoys strong occupancy, especially during the Lunar New Year holidays. In April, when the cherry blossoms are in bloom, international guests account for around 40 percent of our visitors. Inbound tourism has therefore become an important factor in maintaining stable occupancy throughout the year. Many of our guests discover us through Instagram and other social media platforms before making their reservations directly online.”

The rise of online booking has also transformed the way the ryokan anticipates and responds to guests’ expectations. One of the greatest pleasures of staying at Kotohira Kadan is soaking in the private open-air bath of your guest room while taking in views of the historic gardens and the charming townscape of Kotohira.

“Our 13 guest rooms with private open-air baths each have their own distinct character. Today’s international guests, particularly those from across Asia, are highly sophisticated travelers. Before making a reservation, they carefully study every detail of the photographs on our website and often have a clear idea of the room layout they prefer. That is precisely why we take great care to understand each guest’s preferences in advance, allowing us to recommend the room best suited to their expectations. Our goal is always to provide an experience that exceeds what they imagined before arriving.”
　

From Clinical Laboratory Technician to Okami

Kotohira Kadan traces its origins to Bizenya, an inn founded along the main approach to Kotohira-gu Shrine in 1627, and will celebrate its 400th anniversary next year. Okami Miyoshi became part of the ryokan through marriage.
　
“I was born in Obihiro, Hokkaido. After graduating from high school, I spent three years studying at a medical vocational college in Tokyo. Upon graduation, I worked at Juntendo University Hospital as a clinical laboratory technician and cytotechnologist. My role involved examining human cells under a microscope to detect signs of cancer. I met my husband while we were students. As the eldest son of the family that ran this ryokan, he was destined to succeed in the business. We married when I was 29, and I came to Kotohira. That was 42 years ago. At first, I continued attending academic conferences and was invited to work with hospitals and diagnostic laboratories in the prefecture. Eventually, however, I realized it was impossible to balance both careers, so I decided to devote myself fully to the ryokan.”
　　

Adapting to Life at the Ryokan

How easily did she adjust to life at the ryokan?

“I married into the family fully intending to work here. I was still young and knew nothing about the ryokan business, so I simply threw myself into it without thinking too much about the challenges. My husband’s parents were based at Bizenya, while his grandmother looked after Kotohira Kadan. Rather than learning the role of an okami, I was responsible for administrative work behind the scenes. In hindsight, knowing nothing about the ryokan business may actually have been an advantage, as it allowed me to see everything from the guest’s perspective. I observed carefully, constantly asking myself what the best course of action was in each situation. My husband’s grandmother was already quite elderly, and because I worked mostly behind the scenes, she rarely instructed me. In fact, the only advice I really remember was, ‘Run your finger along the shoji frames to check for dust.’
　

A Turning Point for a Historic Ryokan

Over the course of its long history, Kotohira Kadan inevitably faced periods of uncertainty as times changed.

“We felt a deep responsibility to preserve the heritage of Kotohira Kadan, a ryokan that has long been an integral part of the local community, and to carry that legacy forward for future generations. Then, through a fortunate turn of events, we became part of the Hotel New Awaji Group in 2007, marking the beginning of a new chapter. From the very start, Mr. Kinoshita, President of the group, supported us with remarkable warmth and encouragement. Above all, I remain deeply grateful that he chose to preserve the name ‘Kotohira Kadan.’ This marked the beginning of a careful restoration that honored the ryokan’s history and traditions while preparing it to meet the expectations of modern travelers. At the same time, I stepped into the role of okami, taking on the responsibility of leading the ryokan into its next chapter.”

How did the 2008 Grand Renewal transform the ryokan?

“We carefully renovated Kotohira Kadan to provide greater comfort for our guests while preserving the distinctive character that has always defined the ryokan. The three iconic detached villas, long regarded as the symbol of Kotohira Kadan, retain their historic architecture and timeless charm while offering the comfort and refinement expected by today’s travelers. We also completely renewed the guest rooms surrounding our strolling garden and created a Garden Lounge overlooking the Japanese garden, the town of Kotohira, and, in the distance, the Asan Mountain Range. Our hot spring facilities were also reimagined to take full advantage of our location at the foot of Mt. Konpira. The open-air bath is immersed in the surrounding greenery, allowing guests to relax while enjoying sweeping views that extend as far as Mt. Iino, affectionately known as Sanuki Fuji. After a soothing soak, guests can continue their journey of relaxation at the garden spa, where authentic Thai massage and signature treatments await. We hope each guest leaves feeling completely refreshed in both body and mind, ready to savor a peaceful and indulgent evening.”

Reimagining the Dining Experience

“The renewal also transformed our culinary philosophy.

Previously, meals were served banquet-style, with an abundance of dishes presented all at once. We shifted instead to a course format, serving each carefully selected dish individually so that every course could be enjoyed at its very best — hot dishes served piping hot, and cold dishes perfectly chilled. At the heart of the menu are the region’s celebrated Sanuki Three Premium Meats: Sanuki Beef, Sanuki Cochin chicken, and Yumebuta pork, all carefully raised on the fertile Sanuki Plain. These are complemented by the freshest seafood from the Seto Inland Sea and an abundance of locally grown vegetables and rice, creating a menu that celebrates the rich bounty of Kagawa. Our staff also began introducing each dish more thoughtfully, sharing the stories behind the ingredients and the cuisine. Naturally, this fostered a stronger commitment to hospitality throughout the team. More than anything, the renewal transformed everyone’s mindset.”

As a result, guest satisfaction improved significantly, and the ryokan’s increasingly positive online reviews reflected that improvement. It also became possible to attract talented young professionals, something that had once been difficult, and the overall quality of service improved remarkably. Dinner in the main dining room, Keyaki, was equally memorable. In particular, the mountain vegetable hot pot featuring Olive Beef left a lasting impression. Lightly marbled yet exceptionally tender, the beef had a clean, refined flavor with a delicate natural sweetness. The locally grown Sanuki Koshihikari rice was equally impressive, offering a gentle sweetness that perfectly complemented the meal.

“Our Sanuki rice is Koshihikari. Rice grown deeper in the mountains develops an even sweeter flavor. We use a custom blend of mountain-grown rice and rice cultivated on the plains.”

For a visitor from the Kanto region, the rich red miso soup prepared with iriko (dried sardine) broth was also deeply comforting.

Strengthening Ties with the Local Community

How does Kotohira Kadan engage with the local community?

“Kotohira Kadan owes its location — and much of its identity — to Kotohira-gu Shrine. We are truly situated at its doorstep. The shrine’s enshrined deity, Omononushi-no-Okami, has long been revered as the guardian of seafarers, attracting people from the maritime industry who come to pray each year. The deity is also widely worshipped for bringing prosperity in business and many other blessings. Today, Kotohira-gu is equally popular as one of Japan’s renowned power spots. I always recommend climbing the 785 stone steps to the Main Shrine. By the time you reach the top, you can truly feel the atmosphere change. A path behind the ryokan leads directly to Kanamaru-za, Japan’s oldest surviving kabuki theater, home to the annual Shikoku Konpira Kabuki Grand Performance. This is one of our busiest seasons of the year. Kotohira Kadan also serves as an ideal base for exploring the wider region, whether visiting the dramatic Iya Valley in Tokushima Prefecture or traveling onward to Naoshima and Shodoshima, two of the principal islands of the Setouchi Triennale.”

Working Together with the Local Community

How do you work with the local community and its culture?

“I serve as a member of the Konpira Tourism and Town Development Association. Since the Edo period, Kotohira has flourished alongside the Konpira pilgrimage, developing into a center of local culture, commerce, and learning. The town is blessed with historic landmarks, traditional performing arts such as kabuki, local craftsmanship, museums, galleries, and beautiful natural surroundings. Our goal is to present the entire town as a living museum, where visitors can discover and enjoy its rich culture, history, cuisine, and natural beauty. I believe ryokan should serve as stewards of local culture. In that respect, I feel there is still much more we can do to strengthen our ties with the community. Within the ryokan, for example, we display original Daruma dolls created by a traditional Ittobori woodcarving workshop on Omotesando. Looking ahead, I hope we can further strengthen these partnerships by helping bring the Association’s proposed cultural experiences to life. As a ryokan deeply rooted in the local community, we aspire to play an even greater role in introducing the culture, traditions, and unique character of this region to our guests.”

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