THE RYOKAN COLLECTION

A lively open kitchen set off by a stone counter greets guests as they pass through the traditional welcoming noren curtain, giving a glimpse of the delicacies headed their way. A two-tier arrangement in the dining room gives tables a view of a panoramic window that looks like a theater facing the mountains or entrancingly shifting mists depending on the weather. Dark cloth screens provide privacy between tables or guests can opt to sit at the intimate six-seat teppan counter, Ishizue. Muted earthy grays, browns, and greens dominate the minimalist décor, allowing the gorgeous stone, lacquer, and ceramic tableware to stand out. They are all hand-picked from famous craft centers like Arita and Wajima, demonstrating how Japan’s traditional artisans, like its chefs, turn raw natural materials into works of exquisite beauty.